Flora women's bodice sewing tutorial
PATTERN DESCRIPTION
This asymmetrical bodice features a zipper in the middle back seam and cut-off sides on the front and back. The bodice is lined.
SUGGESTED MATERIALS
We recommend using denim and cotton. It is better to use cotton fabric for lining.
ALSO NEEDED
• Metal separating zipper — 20 cm (7 ⅞”);
• Interfacing — 15 cm (5 ⅞”);
• Cotton lining — 45 cm (17 ¾”);
• Bias-cut fusible tape — 1.00 m (1 ⅛ yd).
FABRIC REQUIREMENT (CM/IN)
for fabric width 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
|
International Size \ European size |
XXS-XS / 34-36 |
S-M / 38-40 |
L-XL / 42-44 |
2XL-3XL / 46-48 |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Main fabric, m | 0,45 | 0,45 | 0,50 | 0,50 |
| Main fabric, yd | ½ | ½ | ½ | ½ |
When purchasing fabric, please account for shrinkage and buy 5—10% more than required.
SEAM ALLOWANCES
Pattern pieces already include seam allowances.
SPECIFICATIONS
(№ – Name – Pieces’ quantity)
Main fabric:
1 – Front center – 1 RIGHT SIDE
2 – Front right side – 1 RIGHT SIDE
3 – Front left side – 1 RIGHT SIDE
4 – Back center – 2
5 – Back side – 2
6 – Placket for zipper – 1
7 – Front top facing right – 1+Interfacing RIGHT SIDE
8 – Front top facing left – 1+Interfacing RIGHT SIDE
9 – back top facing – 2+Interfacing
10 – Front bottom facing right – 1+Interfacing RIGHT SIDE
11 – Front bottom facing left – 1+Interfacing RIGHT SIDE
12 – Back bottom facing – 2+Interfacing
Lining
13 – Front center – 1 RIGHT SIDE
14 – Front side right – 1 RIGHT SIDE
15 – Front side left – 1 RIGHT SIDE
16 – Back center – 2
17 – Back side – 2
TOTAL EASE ALLOWANCES
(in cm and in)
• Chest ease — 2 cm (¾”);
• Waist ease — 3 cm (1 ⅛”).
PATTERN PIECES
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Front top facing right (7), front top facing left (8), back top facing (9), front bottom facing right (10), front bottom facing left (11), back bottom facing (12).
Interface the allowances: the right wide allowance of the front center piece (1), for the zipper on the back center pieces(4) and the upper allowance of the top facings (7), (8), (9).
LAYOUT OF PARTS ON FABRIC
Width of fabric — 1.50 m (1 ⅝ yd)
Main fabric
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
Lining
Size — 34 (XXS)
Size — 48 (XXXL)
SEWING INSTRUCTIONS
THE MAIN BODICE
1. Press the left seam allowance of the front center (1) to the wrong side.
2. Sew the right side of the front (2) to the front center piece (1), folding the parts right sides together. Press seam allowances onto the center piece.
3. Sew the left side of the front (3) to the front center piece, folding the parts right sides together. Press seam allowances.
4. Sew the back sides (5) to the front sides. Press seam allowances.
5. Sew the back center pieces (4) to the back sides. Press seam allowances.
ZIPPER
6. Sew first one side of the zipper, placing it to the back piece right sides together, and then sew the second side of the zipper.
7. Press the zipper placket (6) in half, fold it inside out and stitch along the sides. Cut out the corners, flip them inside out and press them.
8. Sew the placket under the left side of the zipper.
FACINGS
9. Sew the right top front facing (7) and the top back facing (9) along the side seam. Press the allowances.
10. Sew the left front top facing (8) and the back top facing (9) along the side seam. Press the allowances.
11. Sew the right front bottom facing (10) and the back bottom facing (12).
12. Sew the left front bottom facing (11) and the back bottom facing (12).
13. Stitch the top right and left edges of the bodice with facings. Topstitch along the facings at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) from the stitching seam.
14. Stitch the corner of the central back piece with a facing. Cut out corners, flip right side out, press.
15. Stitch the corner of the central front piece, including the edge of the left front piece. Cut out corners, turn right side out, press.
16. Stitch the bottom right and left edges of the bodice with facings. Topstitch along the facings at 0.1 cm (1/16’’) from the stitching seam.
17. Stitch the corner of the central back piece with a facing. Cut out corners, flip right side out, press.
18. Stitch the corner of the central front piece, including the edge of the left front piece. Cut out corners, flip right side out, press.
LINING
19. Sew the right (14) and left sides of the front of the lining (15) to the central part of the front of the lining (13). Press the allowances onto the central piece.
20. Sew the back sides (17) to the front sides, leaving an unstitched opening in the left side seam. Press allowances to the front.
21. Sew the central back pieces (16) to the back sides. Press the allowances onto the central piece.
22. Sew the lining to the zipper, placing the pieces right sides together.
23. Sew the lining to the top and bottom facings.
24. Flip the bodice through the opening in the left side seam of the lining. Press.
25. Stitch the left side seam of the lining as far as possible. Sew the remaining section along the edge.
26. Topstitch along the top edge, the fold of the center piece, and the bottom edge of the right side of the bodice.
27. Topstitch along the top and bottom edges of the left side of the bodice, bending the central part.
28. Make a securing stitch right above the stitching seam of the left side with the central part of the front.
29. Give the bodice a final press.
